wtorek, 19 marca 2013

Stone Town part 2 - places to visit

"One writer has compared the old Stone Town of Zanzibar to a tropical forest where tall houses stretch to the sky instead of trees, and the sun filters through a fretwork of overhanging balconies instead of foliage. Its labyrinth of twisting streets and alleys is a stroller's paradise, with new sights, sounds or smells to catch the imagination at every turn: massive carved doors, ancient walls, tiny tempting shops with colourful wares and bustling shoppers, old men chatting on a stone bench or hunched over a traditional board game, kids with battered homemade toys, ghetto-blasters at full volume, thin cats curled in patches of sunlight, little boys hawking cashews or postcards or fresh bread, bright flowers in pots and window-boxes, golden-orb spiders weaving their giant webs on a stunted tree, the sound of the muezzin calling from the mosque and the scent of cloves or ginger or lemongrass – and everywhere the echoes of Zanzibar's rich and fascinating history, the sultans, shipbuilders, explorers, slave markets, merchants and exotic spice trade.

Stone Town was originally built on a peninsula which has probably been inhabited since the first people arrived on Zanzibar (although the creek that separated its eastern edge from the rest of the island has now been reclaimed). Ras Shangani, at the western tip of the peninsula, is thought to have been the site of a fishing village for many centuries, and at least one of Zanzibar's early Swahili rulers, the Mwinyi Mkuu, had a palace here. 
In the 16th century, Portuguese navigators built a church and trading station on the peninsula as it had a good harbour and was easy to defend. When the Omani Arabs began to settle on the island in the 18th century, they built a fort on the site of the church, and today's Stone Town grew up around the Fort.

Most of the houses you see today were built in the 19th century, when Zanzibar was one of the most important trading centres in the Indian Ocean region. The coralline rock of Zanzibar Island was easy to quarry for use as a construction material, so that many of the houses were built in grand style with three or four storeys. Previously most of the houses on Zanzibar had been much smaller, built of mangrove poles and palm thatch, making the fine white buildings in Stone Town even more exceptional.

Today, nearly all of these old houses are still inhabited, although many are in a very bad state of repair. The coralline rock was a good building material but it is also soft, and easily eroded if not maintained. Crumbling masonry, along with dilapidated woodwork, is sadly an all too familiar sight in Stone Town – and in some places where the surface has disintegrated it reveals the rough blocks of ancient coral beneath.

However, since the end of the 1980s and through the 1990s, several buildings in Stone Town have been renovated. The Zanzibar government, with assistance from the United Nations Centre for Human Settlements (the Habitat Fund), plans to preserve many more, eventually restoring the whole Stone Town to something like its original magnificence. The Stone Town Conservation and Development Authority has been established to co-ordinate this work, although it is sometimes hampered by a lack of co-ordination with the local government authorities.

During the 19th century, many of Stone Town's inhabitants were wealthy Arabs and Indians. Consequently the houses were built in two main styles: the Arab style, with plain outer walls and a large front door leading to an inner courtyard; and the Indian style, with a more open façade and large balconies decorated with ornate railings and balustrades, designed to catch sea breezes and dispel the humid atmosphere.

Many of the buildings have doors with elaborately carved frames and panels, decorated with brass studs and heavy locks. The size of the door and the intricacies of its decoration were signs of the family's wealth and status. Today the Zanzibar door has become a well-recognised symbol of the town and island's historic and cultural background, and many new buildings incorporate one into their design – either a genuine one removed from an old building, or a reproduction. 

Among the houses and tucked away in the narrow streets you will come across mosques, churches and other public buildings, almost hidden in the maze. Stone Town also has a few streets of shops, some of them still called bazaars. Some shops are very small, no more than a kiosk, with a few dusty food tins or a couple of jars of sweets on the shelf; others are larger, catering for locals and visitors, with a wider range of foods, books, fabrics, furniture and electrical goods. There are also antique and curio shops (bargain hard here!), and an increasing number of places selling a wide and inventive selection of locally produced arts and crafts, aimed specifically at the growing tourist market.

As you explore the narrow streets with all their historic links, remember that Zanzibar Town today is very much a real community, where people live and work. It is not a museum piece created for tourists. You should not enter any private house or courtyard unless expressly invited to do so, and before you peer through a window or doorway, stop and ask yourself – would you appreciate a stranger doing the same in your home? You should also show respect for local sensibilities (seeClothing in chapter 4). Mosques are not usually open to non-Muslim visitors. Taking photos of buildings is generally acceptable, but you should never photograph people without their permission."

Source: Zanzibar Travel Guide (Ed. 6), co-authored by Chris McIntyr Expert Africa, and published by Bradt Travel Guides, http://www.zanzibar-travel-guide.com/bradt_guide.asp?bradt=1792

piątek, 8 marca 2013

Stown Town, part 1 - history

Today you will be able to read the about Stone Town, the historical center of the capital of Zanzibar, a part of UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the biggest tourist attractions of the island. The town cannot be described in one article, so in this part we will focus on the history and general atmosphere. Our next steps would be monuments, people, food and culture.

The Stone Town of Zanzibar is a fine example of the Swahili coastal trading towns of East Africa. It retains its urban fabric and townscape virtually intact and contains many fine buildings that reflect its particular culture, which has brought together and homogenized disparate elements of the cultures of Africa, the Arab region, India, and Europe over more than a millennium.

On the website of UNESCO's World Heritage Convention, you can find such an explanation for its choice:


Criterion ii : The Stone Town of Zanzibar is an outstanding material manifestation of cultural fusion and harmonization.
Criterion iii : For many centuries there was intense seaborne trading activity between Asia and Africa, and this is illustrated in an exceptional manner by the architecture and urban structure of the Stone Town.
Criterion vi : Zanzibar has great symbolic importance in the suppression of slavery, since it was one of the main slave-trading ports in East Africa and also the base from which its opponents such as David Livingstone conducted their campaign.
Some bit of history would be appropriate in the first place. In the beginning, there was a loose confederation of small coastal city states known as the Zenj bar (Black Empire) which operated in the 8th-10th centuries. The best preserved of these towns is Zanzibar, the name of which is derived from the Perso-Arabic word meaning "the coast of the blacks."
The Swahili economy was destabilized with the arrival of the Portuguese at the end of the 15th century. Following Vasco de Gama's visit in 1499 on his return from India, the Portuguese established a loose suzerainty over the Swahili coast as part of their trading activities. They were forced to settle it permanently when they were challenged by the Turks and later by rival European powers. However, Portuguese influence was limited, and came to an end at the end of the 17th century, when they were driven out of Fort Jesus at Mombasa.
The Portuguese trading role was gradually taken over by Omani Arabs, dealing in grain, dried fish, ivory, and slaves. The slave trade did not assume large proportions until the later 18th century, when they were required in large numbers for the French sugar plantations in the islands of the Indian Ocean and the Caribbean. Dislocation of the slave trade as a result of wars between the English and the French in the early 19th century led to a substantial proportion of them being used in the clove plantations on Zanzibar Island.
The Arab ascendancy came to an end with the 1964 revolution and the creation of the United Republic of Tanzania. It led to many profound social and economic changes. Many of the wealthiest Arab and Indian merchants and craftsmen left the country, abandoning their fine houses and commercial buildings. Immigrants from rural areas and the neighbouring island of Pemba were settled by the government in these buildings. 
Today, Stone Town is a city that finds it's way into ones heart. Each day spent here can be an endless exploration of alleyways, foods and locals culture. Stone Town is located on the biggest of the islands of the archipelago - Unguja, usually referred to as Zanzibar. Nowadays it is a mixture of people from the Middle East, Asia and mainland Africa, but most of them identify themselves as Zanzibari before they identify themselves as African. One can find here a way of life that is replicated in very, very few places in the world.
The town is an acient relic of architecture and way of life, it is also very much alive and in the contemporary world. Music is an important part of today's culture, especially taarab, which is the mix of music styles from Middle East, Chine, Egypt and Africa, but also most recently Europe (incorporation of violin) and bongo flava, Tanzania's interpretation of hip hop with an overwhelming influence of American hip hop and the lyrics all sung in Swahili. All the sounds and beats one can experience in waterfront restaurants, but it is definitely better to seek contact with locals and try some night long parties. 
Stown Town is a city with one foot in the past and one firmly planting and forever adapting in the present world.

source: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/173, http://www.dreamholidayblog.com/taarab-and-bongo-flava-in-zanzibar/

piątek, 1 marca 2013

Zanzibar - Before you come...

Today I want to give you some practical tips about your travel to Zanzibar... Something you should definitely know before coming!

Zanzibari history

First of all, some geographical and historical background can be useful. Maybe you know it, but in case you forgot... Zanzibar is a part of federation of Tanzania. Tanzania has emerged from 2 colonial states, British Zanzibar and German Tanganyika. Now look on the names of these 2 entities and you can see the origin of the word "Tanzania" - it is a combination of TANganyika and ZANzibar - as simple as that!
This island in the Indian Ocean belongs to Tanzania (federal entity). Area of ​​1658 km ². It is famous for its numerous plantations of coconut palm and eugenia. The capital of the island, and also the largest port is Zanzibar, with its historic center Stone Town. In 10th century it was colonized by the Arabs and the Persians. From the sixteenth to the seventeenth it belonged to Portugal, and then again came under Arab authority. In Zanzibar were held the biggest slaves fairs of the East cost of Africa. In 1832 by the order of Sultan Said al-Busaidi Sultanate's capital moved from Muscat to Zanzibar. In the nineteenth century, Great Britain took control of Zanzibar, but formally the local sultans ruled. In order to satisfy Germany's claims to the islands (Germany mastered Tanganyika at that time) United Kingdom gave the Germans the island of Heligoland in the North Sea and the Caprivi region. Since 1890 slavery is abolished on the islands. In 1964 the Republic of Zanzibar and Pemby was proclaimed and in 1964 with Tanganyika the United Republic of Tanzania was established. Zanzibar has a relatively high degree of autonomy, for example they elect their own presidents. In Zanzibar, Stone Town, was born leader of "Queen" - Freddie Mercury.

Visa


You will receive a residence visa at the airport upon arrival at Zanzibar. Residence visas - tourist and transit - cost about 75 dollars. Tanzania is a federation, which includes part of the mainland, the former Tanganyika (including the island of Mafia), and autonomous Zanzibar, the island of Pemba and Unguja. The visa is valid for the entire country. Foreigners, however, force the local passport control (no visa fees) and Customs when entering and when leaving the island of Zanzibar. The passport must be valid for at least three months from the date of entry. A condition of entry is to show a return ticket, or show by having sufficient funds to buy it and to cover the costs of travel (the amount required per day of stay is not specified). These amounts should be entered in the visa application. 

Time

Time in Zanzibar is GMT + 3

Currency


The local currency is the Tanzanian shilling (Tsh) 1 USD = 1200Tsh. You can also pay in dollars. In Zanzibar there are two ATMs, both in Stone Town. There are also sections where you can withdraw money from your credit card, such as Mtoni Marine Center (6% commission), not far from Stone Town. Most of the money changers and banks exchange traveler's checks. Credit cards are accepted only in the better restaurants and shops for tourists. Money can be exchanged without many problems. NOTE: old dollar banknotes with so-called "small heads" are not accepted! Get the best rates exchanging notes of $50 and $100, the lower-denomination banknotes get a slightly lower rate. It is good to have with you some dollars in low denominations for daily expenses. Tanzanians are far more likely to take the U.S. dollar than the Euro. 
U.S. dollar, Euro and other currencies can be exchanged without limitation to Tanzanian shillings in banks and legalized exchange offices. Do not use illegal street exchange offers. In many hotels, restaurants, travel agencies, shops, souvenirs, you can pay by credit card (charged 20% commission).

Internet access and telephone


Area code 255. Foreign mobile phones operate on the island without any problem (however, please confirm with your network operator). Local SIM card costs $ 5. Internet access is available in Stone Town and Nungwi in the complex Amana, the Baobab bungalows in the village in internet cafes.

Electricity

230 V / 50 Hz, but the outlet has 3 holes. Required is a 3-pin adapter. You will need a special plug-adapter, which can be bought at the airport.


Cuisine and food

Tanzanian cuisine is characterized by the large influence of neighboring countries, especially Kenya's kitchen. They are most visible in the realm of Moshi and Arusha. Local people usually eat Bantu roasted meat called here nyama choma, the Maasai prefer a diet rich in corn additives ugali. In Tanzania, drinks should be prepared with boiled water and one would rather avoid inserting ice for drinks because it can be prepared with unboiled water. Also, it is not recommended to drink coffee in cafes and restaurants, it is said to taste awful, because all the best coffees are reserved for export. The most popular beers produced by native breweries include serengeti and safari lager. There are no problems with the purchase of  stronger drinks, despite the fact that Tanzania is the Islamic country. The alcohol that you can try is certainly konyagi vodka which is combined with the carbonated beverage to swallow.
Zanzibar's specialty is fish and seafood, available everywhere, always fresh and varied. In Zanzibar, also known as the spice island, grows virtually everything that grew there before, and what has been traditionally imported over the centuries by traders from Minor Asia, India and Europe. A variety of herbs, roots and fruits is great, but availability of products depends on the season.

Prices

0.3 l bottle of water - 0.5 USD, 1.5 liter bottle of water - 0.8 liters, dinner at a restaurant: 40-80 USD, USD 1.5-2 beer, a bottle of South African wine about 16 - 12 USD, drink at the bar - a few dollars.

Weather and climate


Tanzania is located in the equatorial climate zone. On the coast and in the mountains it's humid climate, while the interior of the country, on a plateau, dry. The average annual total precipitation is as follows: 500-1000 mm on a plateau in the central part of the country, and 1000-2000 mm in the mountains and on the coast. Average monthly temperatures in October are 25 ° C (plateau), 28 ° C in January (coast).
Zanzibar boasts about its great weather all year round. High tourist season coincides with the period from June to September. Warmest and less crowded is between December and March. Low season is during the rainy season - from March to June.
Zanzibar is a typical tropical island. This means that the climate is hot and very humid. During the day, the air temperature often reaches 35 ° C. The average water temperature does not drop below 25 ° C, and often is 29-30 º C.

Medical care

Medical care, particularly in hospitals, is a very poor level. No ambulance. For emergencies in a remote area can be very expensive to call an ambulance flights from Nairobi (Kenya). To Kenya, South Africa or to Europe are sent (at your own expense) patients requiring urgent, complex operations. Standard medical visits and hospital day price vary. The National Health Service charges higher fees from foreigners for some services, particularly for more serious operations. A day in the hospital costs about 30 USD  (without tests, treatments and meals), medical advice and research  about 20 USD, routine testing about 10 USD, from 50 to 200 USD - specialized tests, from 200 to 2000 USD - major surgery, 50 USD - minor surgery. It is good to think about appropriate insurance.

Other useful tips


Tourists are expected to respect the local culture. Shorts, miniskirts, transparent dresses, beach wear beyond the beach, topless on the beach, can expose a tourist to the unpleasantness. Also, photographing and filming without asking permission may cause opposition from the local population. During the Muslim fasting (Ramadan), it is expected that tourists will not be ostentatiously eat in a day of food or drink in public places. In 2003, a ban on work during Ramadan and for venues serving tourists.
- it is recommended to use boiled water, even to brush your teeth. Table bottled water is readily available. Other beverages should also buy only bottled or canned. Do not drink juice offered in restaurants or in child street vendors. Do not eat unwashed raw vegetables and fruits.
- vaccination against hepatitis  is recommended. You should take anti-malarial tablets (before the arrival, stay and up to 10 days after returning). It is recommended to sleep in bed with mosquito net, as well as to use the sun cream
- there are no recognized international health insurance policy or policies. Hospitals need to cover the cost of the patient or his family. The travel package you have insurance, so that you can later seek reimbursement of medical expenses, medical care or possible travel to the other country, etc. You have to be prepared, however, that at the time of injury, you will need to cover the cost of their own personal funds.
- do not walk around in bathing suits at the village and town, because it can be taken as an insult to the local culture and traditions, strongly associated with Islam.
- do not walk alone at night after Stone Town.
- try to remain calm when things take longer than in Europe. An old Tanzanian  proverb says "Europeans have watches and Africans - time."
- use only licensed taxis state. They are marked TAXI.
- it is worth to order a meal before you get terribly hungry, because the waiting time can be surprisingly long
- avoid lonely walks and leaving hand luggage unattended on the beach.
- you can give out candy to the children, but the money encourage them to beg.

I hope that above mentioned pieces of advice will be helpful for every person planning his or hers journey to Zanzibar and informative for everyone interested.